The confusion between platinum and white gold often stems from the fact that civilians have long referred to white gold as "platinum," leading many outside the watch and jewelry industry to become confused about the distinction. For example, the China International Airlines Platinum Card is labeled as "Platinum" in English, and the term "platinum" is also commonly used in other contexts like music recordings.
In the watch and jewelry industry, white gold is an 18K alloy made up of 75% pure gold (or 750 parts per thousand), with the addition of white metals such as palladium or zinc, which give it a silvery appearance. Some brands even apply a layer of enamel to enhance its visual appeal. Therefore, in this industry, white gold is considered a variation of gold, while platinum is a completely different precious metal that is not related to gold at all.
When it comes to pricing, 18K white gold is generally more expensive than other types of 18K gold, such as yellow or rose gold, due to the difficulty in casting and the need for rhodium plating to maintain its luster. Platinum, often referred to as the "king of materials" in luxury watches, is nearly twice as costly as white gold. While 18K white gold contains 750 parts per thousand of gold, platinum is typically found in watchmaking at 950 parts per thousand (95% purity) or 900 parts per thousand (90% purity). This isn't about purity alone, but rather about the functional requirements and the mechanical strength of the metal.
Patek Philippe, for instance, takes extra care to ensure customers can easily distinguish between platinum, white gold, and other materials. In some of their models, they even place a small diamond at the 6 o'clock position to help identify the type of metal used. This attention to detail highlights the importance of clarity when it comes to premium materials in the world of high-end horology.
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